Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). If time is of the essence, mince the onion, garlic, capers, jalapeño pepper, and chives in a mini food processor. Always cut the fish by hand.
Put the cod, smoked salmon, onion, garlic, capers, jalapeño pepper, and chives in a bowl and toss gently. Lightly whisk 1 egg. Add the egg, lemon juice, salt and pepper and toss again. The mixture should be fairly loose. Add more lemon juice and another egg if it seems too dry.
Put the breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl. Shape one-sixth of the fish mixture into a disk. Cover all sides with breadcrumbs. Continue until all the fish is used. The cakes will be very delicate and moist.
Melt 1 Tbsp. (15 mL) oil and 1 Tbsp. (15 mL) butter in a non-stick frying pan. When just sizzling, add the cod cakes. Brown on both sides, turning gently to prevent the cakes from breaking. Add more oil and butter as needed.
Remove to a baking tray. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes. Serve immediately with a spoonful of Romesco Sauce on the side and a drizzle of Lemon Mayonnaise overtop.
Romesco Sauce
It seems there are as many versions of Romesco Sauce as there are Spanish flamenco dancers. Almonds, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes, and bread turn up in most traditional recipes for this sauce. Some modern versions have dispensed with the almonds and substituted roasted red peppers for the tomatoes. Here are two versions--authentic and contemporary. Take your pick. Don't restrict the use of these sauces to this dish. They go equally well with any grilled white fish, shrimp, or chicken and are an integral part of Mariner's Medley (see recipe). Some Spaniards enrich their cardiologists by mixing them with aïoli or mayonnaise.
The Real Thing
1 cup (240 mL) whole blanched almonds
2 slices white or Calabrese bread, crusts removed, sliced ¾ inch (1.9 cm) thick and then into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
1 clove garlic
1/8 tsp. (.5 mL) kosher salt
2 good-sized Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. (30 mL) sherry vinegar
up to ¾ cup (180 mL) olive oil
salt and freshly ground white pepper
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Toast the almonds on a cookie sheet in the oven for about 10 minutes or until light golden. Then toast the bread cubes until slightly dry and just golden.
Grind the almonds into a fine powder using a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Mince the garlic clove and mash with 1/8 tsp. (.5 mL) salt into a paste. (See Cook's Tip). In a food processor, combine the almonds, bread, garlic, tomatoes, and sherry vinegar. Pulse for 2 or 3 10-second bursts, scraping down the bowl in between, until the ingredients are combined. With the machine on, slowly pour ½ cup (120 mL) oil through the spout. The sauce should be thick enough to just hold its shape in a spoon. Add more olive oil if needed. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
The Upstart
3 red peppers, roasted, peeled, and seeded (see below for roasting instructions)
2 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 slices white or Calabrese bread, crusts removed, lightly toasted, sliced ¾ inch (1.9 cm) thick and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
1/8 tsp. (.5 mL) cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. (1.2 mL) kosher salt
1/8 tsp. (.5 mL) freshly ground white pepper
up to ¾ cup (180 mL) olive oil
Put the red peppers, garlic, bread, cayenne, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor. Process for 2 10-second bursts, scraping down the bowl in between bursts. Turn on the machine and slowly drizzle in ½ cup (120 mL) oil. Check for seasoning and consistency. The sauce should be thick enough to just hold its shape in a spoon. Add the extra oil if necessary.
Grill or broil the whole peppers, turning often to ensure that the sides are evenly charred. Place in a brown paper bag and let cool; steaming them like this makes the peppers much easier to peel. Use your fingers to peel off the skin, and discard the stem and seeds. Slice the peppers lengthwise in halves or quarters, depending on size.
COOK'S TIP
To turn garlic and salt into a paste, start by finely mincing the garlic. Sprinkle the salt over the garlic, and using the flat side of a large chef's knife, press down and draw the garlic and salt across the cutting board. Scrape the mixture together and continue the motion until the garlic is a paste.